Didier a écrit:
Quel est l'inconvénient si il y en a un ?
Gally112 a écrit:Didier a écrit:
Quel est l'inconvénient si il y en a un ?
bah a mon avis 3,8, juste en jouant avec la taille des bieles et du vilo, c'est pas possible, a mon avis il faut de plus realeser a son maximum ... donc l'inconveinient c'est que d'une si tu casser, tu jete le bloc et de deux realeser au max ca bien fragiliser un peut le bloc ...![]()
sinon j'ai vue que chez nissan il y avais le VG33 ... 3,3l stock .... si c'est vraiment la meme base .... il y a peut etre moyen de fraire quelque chose !!!
Just wanted to put this information all in one spot.
Big Thanks to mtcookson for letting me know before hand some of the differences. I would not have performed this swap without his advice!
I just performed this swap and found a few more. I just want to clarify a few things for others interested in this swap.
From the bottom up.
The VG30 oil pan will bolt to the VG33 block
The a VG30 oil pump will bolt on the vg33 block and is needed if running the vg30’s oil pan as the pick up tube is in a different location from the vg33 pump unless you want to fab. the pickup tube.
The VG30 crank will work in the VG33
The VG30 crank will only work with the VG30 Oil Pump
The VG33 Crank will only work with the VG33 Oil Pump
If you plan on running the VG33 crank in your swap you will have to modify the pickup tube as read above again. The VG30 pick up tube will bolt to the vg33 pump but it will be in the incorrect place. I modified the VG30 tube to work in the vg30 pan with a vg33 pump. I also had to cut some baffling in the pan to make it work.
If running a vg33 oil pump the filter is attached to a extension bolted to the pump. This was in the way on my car. I was able to tap the oil pump with ¼ NPT tap and run fittings to a remote filter housing. If you are stuck with the vg33 crank as I am, this must be done if the filter housing is in the way. You can not run the filter on the side of the block if using this oil pump. I suppose you could if you fabed a loop for the two holes in the side of the oil pump, but if you are going to do this, you might as well run a remote oil filter.
Crank pulleys are not interchangeable.
Water pump is a bit different. VG30 was shorter than the vg33.
I ran the water pump that went with the crank so the belts would line up.
The t-stat housing on the VG30 will not bolt to the vg33 block as there is casting material in the way of the housing. You may be able to grind, I did not try.
The vg33 t-stat housing outlet puts the lower hose connection at an angle, not straight out as the vg30 housing did. This forced me to fab up some creative lower hose connections.
T belts/cam gears/crank gears must be for the crank you are running.
If VG30 crank sprocket you must use vg30 cam gears/ t-belt
If vg33 crank sprocket you must use vg33 cam gears.
The cam gears are interchangeable with the cam
VG33 gears will work on a vg30 cam.
The intakes are interchangeable.
The flywheel from a vg30 will bolt to a vg33 crank.
The cams from a vg30 will work in a vg33 head.
The valve springs from a vg30 will work in a vg33 head.
The transmission from a vg30 will work on a vg33 block.
Mounts are the same also.
The vg30 distributor required some time on the grinder. An angle must be made at the base of the distributor as the clamping bolt did not go straight down as on vg30 heads. On Vg33 heads this bolt enters at an angle.
mtcookson added "On the distributor, there should be plate that bolts to the head. The distributor bolts to that plate. You should be able to remove the plate from one head and put it on the other to go with the distributor you're using. "
Joe
velaone a écrit:Doom ! t'as oublier ! Il faut dans les deux cas carresser le moteur, une opération fastidieuse et hautement abrasive pour les mains et les organnes génitaux. De plus l'utilisation de gants et autres accessoires de protection étant déconseillé, le moteur s'en redrait compte ! et l'operation serait a recommencer, 8 semaines de carresses, tout de meme !
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